Over the past few years, matcha — the fine green powder made from ground tea leaves — has seen an enormous rise in popularity. A quick scroll through social media makes it easy to understand why: its vibrant colour, its reputed health benefits, and its promise of sustained, gentle energy have won over a growing number of consumers. At Camellia Sinensis, we’ve been watching this trend closely — and feeling its effects first-hand.
In an interview with Radio-Canada journalist Janic Tremblay, Hugo Américi shared the growing challenges faced by the industry in light of this unprecedented demand. The journalist visited the company’s warehouse, where Hugo offered him a traditional matcha tasting while unpacking the pressures behind a market in crisis.
Why is matcha so popular today?
“Matcha now occupies seven of the top ten spots on our bestsellers list,” Hugo revealed.
Matcha’s rise to prominence is largely due to social media, which highlights its striking aesthetics. Consumed particularly for its effects on focus and energy, it’s especially popular among 15 to 25-year-olds. This popularity has translated into consistent growth over the past five to six years — a growth that has now reached a tipping point: demand far exceeds global supply. The shortage originates in Japan, the source of high-quality matcha, and affects the entire supply chain, all the way to Canada.
“Matcha-gate” and the patience of enthusiasts
With supply delays and an inability to keep up with demand, Camellia Sinensis — like many others — has had to become increasingly transparent with its clientele. “It’s become a daily challenge,” Hugo admits. “We need to explain the situation, find solutions, manage expectations. It takes a lot of energy and patience.”
Cafés and restaurants using matcha in their drinks are generally understanding, but the shortage still causes frustration. Adding to this is the potential for a sharp price increase — possibly up to 50% over the coming year — which could shake up the market.
As this craze continues, the big question looms: can the industry adapt? For Hugo Américi, the answer is nuanced. While the exponential growth of recent years seems to be levelling off, the matcha industry will need to adjust its production capacity — while preserving the artisanal quality that has earned this ancient powder its reputation.
A slow… and delicate process
Matcha production requires a very specific transformation process. Several weeks before harvest, the tea bushes are shaded with mesh to block sunlight. This stimulates chlorophyll production and gives matcha its distinct flavour. Then comes hand-picking, meticulous drying, and finally, grinding the leaves with stone mills — a particularly demanding step, as it is extremely slow: it takes more than an hour to produce just 40 grams of matcha.
“This process is time-consuming and cannot be rushed without compromising quality. Going too fast risks burning the leaf,” explains Hugo. Converting a sencha garden into a matcha garden demands major investment, expert knowledge, and, above all, time.
This artisanal skill faces another reality: a local labour shortage. In Japan, fewer and fewer young people are taking over family tea farms. Many prefer to move to cities and seek jobs in other industries. In the early 2000s, there were around 53,000 matcha producers; by 2020, that number had dropped to just 13,000.
At a time when matcha enthusiasm shows no sign of waning, producers and importers alike must navigate these limitations. At Camellia Sinensis, we’re working every day to improve the situation. Transparency, consumer education… and patience are the order of the day.